- Aftermarket 10/22® fluted bull barrel
- Lengths: 20", 18", 16.5"
- Polished Stainless Steel
- HAND LAPPED individually
- 11-degree crown, 1:16 twist, convex extractor slot
- Muzzle threading 1/2" - 28
- 1/2" at 50 yards guarantee
Our aftermarket .22LR fluted stainless steel bull barrel is
one of the best-looking barrels on the market and performs with the expected
KIDD quality. The fluting enhancement in a .22 rimfire is more of an aesthetic
or cosmetic feature rather than for cooling purposes. But this stylish barrel
doesn't just look good it is also guaranteed to group 1/2" at 50 yards.
This bull barrel will slip into your factory 10/22® receiver or
other aftermarket 10/22® receiver.
Our stainless-steel barrel is bored and rifled by Lothar
Walther in Germany. Tony Kidd then performs all the final machining to make our
match fluted barrel a worthy KIDD product, including hand lapping each one. A
proprietary chamber reamer is used to ensure the cartridge and bullet feed
smoothly. Our barrels are chambered to accept .22LR ammo and have a 1:16 twist.
Our muzzle threading is 1/2"-28 and comes with a protective cap.
The unique convex extractor slot eliminates extraction
problems by ensuring the extractor is always in perfect alignment with the case
rim. Why doesn't everybody use this extractor slot? Because the tooling is very
expensive and requires tolerances be held very close for proper machining. Each
barrel receives an 11-degree crown and the double ring at the muzzle end with
KIDD marked on the barrel.
Barrel Weights:
20" SS Fluted barrel = 3 pounds 1 ounce
18" SS Fluted Barrel = 3 pounds
16.5" SS Fluted Barrel = just under 3 pounds
Avoiding "barrel droop":
First and foremost, barrel droop is eliminated with a solid
fit between the barrel and the receiver. If the barrel slips in too easily then
the shooter should already be aware that there is not a secure fit and gravity
will start doing her work immediately. Or if the barrel tenon is not the same
diameter throughout the length then a teeter totter effect is set in motion.
For instance, if the breach end of the tenon is smaller than the shoulder end
the weight of the barrel will "pull" the barrel down and barrel droop
is created. Or if the breach end of the tenon is larger than the shoulder end
then as the tenon is installed in the mortise the breach carves a larger hole
and again a teeter totter effect is created as the smaller shoulder end of the
tenon sits is a hole that is too large. This same effect would happen if the
middle of the barrel tenon was enlarged.
KIDD eliminated barrel droop with the utilization of a
resistance fit in this mortise and tenon joint, meaning that the KIDD barrel
tenon is just slightly larger in diameter than the KIDD receiver mortise and we
make certain that the tenon is the same diameter throughout the length.
Another problem area to be aware of is the proper
utilization of the shoulder. If the shoulder of the barrel does not set flush
against the receiver, then again, the support isn't there. Comparable to
setting down a tall glass with a convex bottom, it wants to tilt. We make
certain that the shoulder created between the .920" diameter and our tenon
is precise. This requires specialty cutting tools to create a very clean step.
But if done with less care there will be a ramp rather than a step between
these two differing diameters. This ramp will not support the necessary weight
and will prevent the shoulder of the barrel from sitting flush against the
receiver.
When this barrel fitment is secure, we recommend the
v-block screws just need to be snug, around 10-inch pounds, which is just snug
enough to keep the barrel from moving forward, but not too tight to pull the
barrel out of alignment.
Barrel installation:
Depending on your receiver, if there
is paint built up in the receiver mortise be sure to scrape that out. We
recommend using an anti-seize compound to assist in installation. Anti-seize is
readily available at automotive stores or in our maintenance tab. It is best if
you can get the barrel tenon started into the receiver mortise, then turn it
over and tap the back of the receiver with a rubber mallet. Be sure to line the
extractor slot up as you are installing the barrel. Your barrel is ready to
shoot, just run two magazines through it before you really start looking at
group size. Do this each time you change brands of ammunition as well. Keep the
chamber clean, but don't clean the bore too much, you will decrease accuracy.
Depending on the ammo, clean the bore around every 500 rounds.
