- Aftermarket 10/22® pistol bull barrel .920”
- Lengths: 10" Weight: 2lbs 1oz
- Bead Blasted Stainless Steel
- Hand lapped individually
- 11-degree crown, 1:16 twist, convex extractor slot
Our aftermarket pistol bull
barrel is a precise upgrade for your Ruger® 10/22® Charger™. Our stainless-steel material along with our
unique manufacturing procedures will increase your accuracy.
We believe these are the finest barrels on the market, each
one is hand lapped. Our stainless-steel barrel is bored and rifled by Lothar
Walther in Germany. Tony Kidd then performs all the final machining to make our
pistol barrel a worthy KIDD product. A proprietary chamber reamer is used to
ensure the cartridge and bullet feed smoothly. Our barrels are chambered to
accept .22LR ammo and have a 1:16 twist.
The unique convex extractor slot eliminates extraction
problems by ensuring the extractor is always in perfect alignment with the case
rim. Why doesn't everybody use this extractor slot? Because the tooling is very
expensive and requires tolerances be held very close for proper machining. Each
barrel receives an 11-degree crown and the double ring at the muzzle end with
KIDD marked on the barrel.
Avoiding "barrel droop":
First and foremost, barrel droop is eliminated with a solid
fit between the barrel and the receiver. If the barrel slips in too easily then
the shooter should already be aware that there is not a secure fit and gravity
will start doing her work immediately. Or if the barrel tenon is not the same
diameter throughout the length then a teeter totter effect is set in motion.
For instance, if the breach end of the tenon is smaller than the shoulder end
the weight of the barrel will "pull" the barrel down and barrel droop
is created. Or if the breach end of the tenon is larger than the shoulder end
then as the tenon is installed in the mortise the breach carves a larger hole
and again a teeter totter effect is created as the smaller shoulder end of the
tenon sits is a hole that is too large. This same effect would happen if the
middle of the barrel tenon was enlarged.
KIDD eliminated barrel droop with the utilization of a
resistance fit in this mortise and tenon joint, meaning that the KIDD barrel
tenon is just slightly larger in diameter than the KIDD receiver mortise and we
make certain that the tenon is the same diameter throughout the length.
Another problem area to be aware of is the proper
utilization of the shoulder. If the shoulder of the barrel does not set flush
against the receiver, the support isn't there. Comparable to setting down a
tall glass with a convex bottom, it wants to tilt. We make certain that the
shoulder created between the .920" diameter and our tenon is precise. This
requires specialty cutting tools to create a very clean step. But if done with
less care there will be a ramp rather than a step between these two differing diameters.
This ramp will not support the necessary weight and will prevent the shoulder
of the barrel from sitting flush against the receiver.
When this barrel fitment is secure, we recommend the
v-block screws just need to be snug, around 10-inch pounds, which is just snug
enough to keep the barrel from moving forward, but not too tight to pull the
barrel out of alignment.
Barrel installation:
Depending on your receiver, if there is paint built up in
the receiver mortise be sure to scrape that out. We recommend using an
anti-seize compound to assist in installation. Anti-seize is readily available
at automotive stores or in our maintenance tab. It is best if you can get the
barrel tenon started into the receiver mortise, then turn it over and tap the
back of the receiver with a rubber mallet. Be sure to line the extractor slot
up as you are installing the barrel. Your barrel is ready to shoot, just run
two magazines through it before you really start looking at group size. Do this
each time you change brands of ammunition as well. Keep the chamber clean, but
don't clean the bore too much, you will decrease accuracy. Depending on the
ammo, clean the bore around every 500 rounds.
